Twitter

I had a really amazing experience a few minutes ago. I don't check twitter very often. Sometimes I post a few things from my travels, but it's not really my cup of tea. Well. When I did a search for the hashtag #nairobi I found out a Dutch tourist desperately needed O negative blood at a hospital nearby. So I immediately responded (because I have 0 negative blood) and it turned out they weren't in need of it anymore, but still. How amazing is that?! They got enough blood just by posting on twitter. I shall have to donate blood while I am here, as I've looked it up, and they are in need of it. Granted it won't stay for very long if they don't end up using it, but still. It would be nice to feel useful here. We live in an amazing age. Imagine if that woman had been in need of O negative blood only 5 years ago? I will never again look down on people who use twitter too much; it's clearly a very useful, life-changing tool. If anyone wants to find me on it, I'm here: DisgruntledElf

Day 5 in Nairobi (Christmas Eve)

It's christmas eve and we've done nothing, but I'm more ok with that now that we've finally done something. We were supposed to go to Nyeri today and visit Jay's grandmother and other family members there, but Jay's mom had some errands to run and returned too late.

Jay apparently has never heard of Alanis Morisette which blows my mind and makes me feel very, very old. We went to the nearby mall again (named YaYa) and I, again, had to stop myself from buying some paintings. They're of really ornate doors or windows and you can open them and inside there's all types of people walking around Nairobi. I adore them, but they're like $300 each and as much as I joke about wasting all my monies, I really can't afford to buy another $300 painting. The one is enough. Plus how terrible would I be for buying something for $300 for aesthetic purpose in a country where people are starving?! $300 is probably more than some people here will see in a lifetime. I have to remember that. So when we got back I made a bunch more kiva loans. But is that enough? With all my parent's money problems (so far they've taken $3000 from me, and it looks like they'll be getting more), I'm reluctant to just outright donate my money anywhere. The glory of kiva loans is that I can input an endless amount of money towards people who need it more than me, but 90% of the time I'll get it back. But they do have terrible interest rates. I should've donated more money when I had the chance.

Afterwards we went and got dinner with some friends of their family. It was nice. I ate lots and lots of chapati with curry sauce, because for some reason curry here has bones in it.

Merry Christmas everyone!

Day 4!

So today was hilarious. We drove up to "Nairobi National Park" and Jay turns to me and says "don't get excited. We're just making a u-turn." And I'm like "I figure." and she bursts out cackling. But then we continue driving around for a while and even spaced out I eventually realize no u-turn could take this long. Then Jay's mom gets out to talk to the people at the gate and I'm like "holy crap. We're actually going on a safari?!" and Jay's like "...of course!" so I get excited.

But then it turns out Jay's mom didn't bring anyone's ID's and in order to get into the park everyone needs them :/

So we finally go to the hills instead. It's nice enough. There's trees everywhere and Jay's mom says it's where "Out of Africa" was set, not that that means anything particular to me. She goes on about how the author of the book lived nearby and died of syphilis, so me and Jay pretend to be major fans of hers and start speculating on who we can sleep with passing by who might be carrying the same strain of it that killed her. We then stop at a camp site and have a picnic. For once the kids aren't too annoying and even though I don't eat the food (I counted 15 flies buzzing around food displayed. 15!!!!) I'm not really hungry and it's really peaceful and nice. Then some Maasai come over selling some wares and I buy a pretty crown and a headdress. All in all, it's a really lovely day. Easily my best here. I'm happy.

Women Drinking Water Badly: Apparently an international concept!

For anyone who doesn't know what I'm talking about, check this out. It's pretty sad, but maybe if we ban together, we can eradicate this affliction in my lifetime!

-Edit- Although in retrospect, this is particularly disgusting in a country where many people can't get access to clean drinking water. Put in that light, this goes from funny/mildy disturbing to downright obscene.

Day 3 in Nairobi

So today I went shopping with Jay's aunt. She's really lovely, but also a tad bit vain. I kept trying to buy dresses with cool designs and use of color, but she kept putting me in clothes for clubbing. I do adore her though; she's very friendly to me, and she really doesn't have to be. I realize I must look frustrated and bored this trip, because she keeps asking me if I'm ok and trying to cheer me up. And then I feel horrible for not having more fun. I just wish I could be more independent here. Maybe I could buy a burkha somewhere?? Then I wouldn't stand out nearly so much. Still it was fun wandering around Nairobi. I'm starting to accept that maybe this trip won't go as I'd hoped. I'll just have to come back someday with other people. Jay's too frightened to wander anywhere with me; I tried that and we got as far as the parking lot before she chickened out. Her brother's really sick now from eating a meat pie." He didn't eve know what meat it was! I realize food is an important part of culture, but nothing short of a kingdom is worth being as sick as he is now.

Day 2

I'm starting to get frustrated, which I realize is unfair. We started driving to the hills, but then Jay's mother decided she'd prefer to drive to a Maasai village instead to watch them dance. But when we got there, we discovered the dancing wasn't for a few more hours and so we drove all the way back in order to pick someone up from the airport. The drive was nice, and I liked watching outside, but I still felt bitterly disappointed. At least we walked around Nairobi some more. I feel ancy, worried about all the money I spent on this trip, and the lack of time we have here. But I realize that's unfair too. I realize they aren't here for me, and I'm grateful I have a place to stay and people to travel with. I just wish it was possible for me to travel by myself. Jay's mother won't let me, telling me that if I'm lost or hurt, the American embassy will destroy them. I'm not sure how much of that is just dramatics and how much is the truth. She and her children have American citizenship, so I hope they wouldn't be blamed, but what about her sisters and their children? I don't think the American embassy is that evil or that covetous of its citizens abroad, but I don't know. And just how dangerous is it here? I feel like I can protect myself, but realize that feeling is not really enough.

In any case, while waiting for them to finish more passport errands in Nairobi, I had a scary experience. As soon as they went into the building, I started locking all the doors and attempting to roll up the windows, but then a man walked up, opened the door, and got in. He told me he was a valet driver, and that our parking space had to be moved, but I wasn't sure if I could trust him, so I fretted in the back with a comb clutched in my hand, as if that could defend me if he decided to drive off. Then I made him call Jay's family, and sure enough, he had been telling the truth, thank god. So (against everyone's wishes) I decided to walk to a nearby Orange store and buy a goddamn phone for instances such as that, because what if he'd reused to let me use his phone? How would I have proven he wasn't stealing our car? So I bought the cheapest phone they had. I felt ridiculously competent for such a small task, but there had been multiple people I had to talk to and wait on line with, and it felt like a victory when I walked out with an activated phone with plenty of minutes on it. I'm glad I got to do something by myself, at least.

Day 1 in Nairobi

I arrived last night. First I flew into Miami, then London Heathrow and finally, Nairobi; a trip that took close to a full 24 hours. My flight to London was magically upgraded by the seat number I chose, and I ended up in British Airways' "World Traveller Plus" class. I got early boarding, more seat room, a nicer pillow, awesome headphones (that they unfortunately made sure to take away) and free drinks, which I promptly took advantage of. It wasn't first class, but it was still damn nice as I would find out soon enough. The flight to Nairobi was economy class and I stared longingly at the seat room the "World Traveller's" got, believe you me. Then the airport. It took quite a while longer to get my visa then the comments on tripadvisor would have had me believe. Then (of course!) I discovered my bag hadn't made it (bastards!). I filed a claim and then walked out where Jay's mom was waving her hands around, surrounded by Jay's family.

Today Jay and her brother had to go do stuff to get their passports renewed. I'm glad I went along. When Jay's mom came upstairs she said we'd go to the hills later after the errands were done, but they took too long so we ended up just walking around Nairobi. It's super crowded and beautiful and really dirty. I was worried I'd think a city populated almost entirely by people who look nothing like me would seem bizaare and alien to me, but I'm happy to comment that wasn't the case. I did get quite a few looks though. Jay told me yesterday her mom followed me to the airport's bathrooms, because the men behind her had questioned her on "where she got [me]" and "could she leave me with [them]?" It made me sad, because I wanted to wander around by myself. Even in Cairo, I would sneak short trips by myself, telling my teachers that the students I was travelling with were running behind and would be by shortly. But I didn't stick out quite as much there, with my skin darkened by Jordan's sun, I could pass for a light-skinned Arab. Now I am back to my super pale, pasty complection and I am surrounded by much darker people. I used to daydream about cutting my hair off and passing as a man should things get too frustrating in Jordan, too for your own good sexist. Here I daydream about buying a burka to walk around freely. How contrary! But there are plenty of Muslim woman walking around in Nairobi in all types of outfits. Strangely, I rarely see them accompanied by men (I wonder why that is?) and rarely see the men (in long white robes and small caps) accompanied by women.

We stopped at a restaurant for lunch. The prices were similar to Jordan's (a meal with a drink cost around $5). I ordered chicken curry, but it was on the bone, and I felt ridiculous, but couldn't bring myself to eat it. So I ate "chips" and rice instead.

Now I'm back at the apartment Jay's family rented. In addition to her mom and brother (who both live in America), there are 3 aunts here and 4 children (two boys, two girls). I'm in love with the youngest, Dylan, who is only 1 year old. I'm sharing a queen-sized bed upstairs with Jay.

Good night Nairobi, Good night world!

Pre-Kenya

So it's mid-finals week and I find myself at my local "Passport health" clinic. It's behind some construction and looks a little shady, but inside it's nice. I spend a ridiculous amount of money on vaccinations (4!). It's weird, because before going to Jordan it never even occurred to me to get any vaccinations for Egypt, even though I knew I'd be spending spring break there. In retrospect that was a little stupid. Maybe more than a little? I did get sick literally the second I was back in Jordan (all over my host family's carpet ugh), but I managed pretty well there. For Kenya I go over the top and get EVERYTHING. I still have my sense of reckless abandon, but I keep thinking "I don't wanna die before I fall in love. I don't wanna die before I fall in love." A preposterous notion, considering that lacking in my human experience is likely more my fault than anyone else's, but the sentiment scares me in its ferocity. I also buy anti-malaria tablets. The kindly receptionist informs me I can get the $25 brand with quite a few scary side effects or the $175 brand with next to none. Eventually I decide on the $25 brand; I'm feeling more lucky/crazed after all those shots.

Later, it occurs to me what a modern miracle this whole experience is. I will not be getting yellow fever. I will not be getting typhoid fever, or meningitis, or malaria. I am blessed by my birth's timing and by the privilege of my lower-middle class, American upbringing.